Approaching La Soutteraine, Voie de Vézelay, France, 2005.”

Where to Sleep in France ~ Hostels

Not just for kids anymore

Hostels are a good way to stretch your travel dollars, as well as hang out a bit with fellow travelers, some of whom you may have passed on the trail this afternoon (no doubt because their pack, unlike yours, was so HEAVY!). Hostels are not as common in France as in some other countries, but there are a fair number. Like anything else, there are better ones and a few “not so good”, but for the most part, I’ve had good experiences at the hostels I’ve stayed at in France.

The basic hostel has several small dormitory-style rooms, each with two to eight beds. The idea is that they are shared as needed, but depending on the size of the crowd, it’s not uncommon to end up with your own room. I have, more than once! A growing number of hostels have some private rooms available, although not necessarily with en suite facilities. Some make a special effort to accommodate families and larger groups, but even in those, there’s often a spare bed for a solo walker. (more…)

Longwalk 2011 ~ Chemin d’Arles, part 1

Books & Trail Guides

In 2011, we plan to return to Europe for several weeks of walking in France on the long-distance GR hiking trails, called les sentiers de grande randonnée. The exact route(s) are still being considered, as is the departure date, but we are currently planning to walk along the ancient series of trails known as the Chemin d’Arles (the road from Arles), starting in early Spring. This article covers the FFRP topo-guides, trail guides, and books about the various sections of the GR 653 route. (more…)

Approaching Saint-Alban, chemin du Puy, France, 2009.

Where to Sleep ~ Chambres d’Hôtes

Among the possibilities of hébergement (lodging) in France are the many Chambres d’Hôtes. These are similar to what Americans call a Bed & Breakfast. They have become my preferred evening stop, and whenever possible, I seek them out, especially in small villages, and the countryside. (more…)

Waymark on the trail to Drache, France, 2007.”

French Trails and the FFRP

FFRandonnée Leads the Way

The FFRP®, now re-branded as FFRandonnée®, is the administrative heart of the vast web of French long-distance hiking trails. If you’re planning to take a walk in France, this is prime resource dedicated to providing information to all randonneurs (hikers). The FFRandonnée Centre d’Information is in a nondescript office building not far from the Paris Métro station Bibliothèque François Mitterrand, on Line 14. (more…)

Path to Saugues, Chemin du Puy, France, 2009.

How to use a French Topo-Guide

Part 2 ~ Tips for English language walkers

English-language walkers without much familiarity with French may have an extra challenge when hiking the long-distance trails of France. But it is by no means impossible, and may be both educational and fun. Imagine how impressed your family and friends will be when you return home being able to say “kwarh-SOHn” instead of “crah-sahnt” when you order a croissant. With a little effort, and a small dictionary, it is not too hard to figure out the maps and instructions of the French-language topo-guides (trail guides) published by the FFRP, (the French long-distance trail association). (more…)

The FFRP Topo-Guides® of France

Part 1 ~ Introduction to the Best French Trail Guides

How do you find your way?

How do you keep from getting lost?

I’m often asked these questions about my long-distance walks in France and Spain. The reason I rarely lose my way, is that I use one of the many superb trail guides, called Topo-guides® (pronounced “TOH-Poh-Gheed”) that are produced by the FFRandonnée, also called the FFRP, for Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre (French Long-distance Hiking Association). These excellent trail guides contain detailed maps, pathfinding instructions, lists of useful resources along the GR® routes (sentiers de grande randonnée), and a wealth of history, culture and wildlife information about the various sections of the trail. (more…)

Cirque de la Solitude on the GR 20; photo by FrayMan, Corsica, 2008.

Trails ~ Corsica

The GR-20

Here’s a first footstep into longwalking through Corsica.

Out of the hills to the road on the way to Le Puy, France, 2009.

Yummy Sleeping

The Miam Miam Dodo Guides to Walking in France

One of the best resources for Santiago pilgrims and other long-distance walkers in France is a series of guides with the funny name Miam Miam Dodo. This is French baby talk that roughly translates to “Yum Yum Nighty Night”. (more…)

French Trail Maps ~ the IGN

The Espace IGN in Paris

The Institut Géographique National (French National Geographic Institute), or IGN, as it is commonly known, is the principal government mapping agency of France. The IGN creates, updates and publishes a wide range of map products that are available to the public. There are several of particular interest to long-distance walkers who are planning a hike through France. These are described below, but first a few facts: (more…)

Trail Angels

They really are looking out for us

One of the greatest, and always unexpected joys of going for a wander, is the people you meet along the way.

This is nowhere more special than in France. The great trails of Europe, the “sentiers de grande randonnée”, have been active footpaths for many centuries, and all along the trails, particularly the ancient pilgrim trails of leading to St-Jacques-Compostelle, various local people do what they can to make the pilgrim’s passage a happy one. (more…)